The Story of Wine Doesn't Begin in the Cellar – or on the Day of Harvest
The most important moments happen quietly, among the summer grape clusters – in the final days of July.
Folk tradition highlights two consecutive days during this period: July 25 – St. James’s Day, and July 26 – St. Anne’s Day. These observances have long served as agricultural markers, especially in viticulture – not just as folklore, but as real seasonal indicators. Together, they trace the subtle turning point when growth shifts to ripening, and the grapevine begins to “think in wine.”
St. James’s Day – When the Vine Changes Course
July 25 marks the onset of veraison – a turning point when the vine essentially declares:
"Growth is over; now it’s time to ripen."
This is the general beginning of the ripening phase: although the berries are not yet sweet enough to harvest, from this point on, every day counts.
The berries begin to accumulate sugars (glucose and fructose), while acidity gradually decreases – a process known as veraison. Red varieties start to develop their color; white ones turn opalescent and change subtly in texture, aroma, and taste. What was once raw fruit begins its transformation into something more.
🔍 Veraison: The stage in grape development when berries start accumulating sugars (glucose and fructose) and acidity declines. Red grapes begin to color, white grapes lighten and soften. The skin loosens, and the berries are no longer firm to the touch.
St. Anne’s Day – The First Taste of the Vintage
July 26 marks something very different. On this day, the earliest-ripening varieties – such as Csabagyöngye, a table grape – may already be sampled in many regions, some even reaching full ripeness.
This isn’t just the first sensory evaluation of the crop – it’s the first real encounter with the wine to come. The winemaker, tasting these early grapes, begins to grasp the character of the vintage.
It’s important to distinguish the two days: while St. James’s Day is a general ripening milestone, St. Anne’s Day brings tangible results – real berries, real flavor. It’s a first fulfillment, even if only for a few select varieties.
Who Was Anne – and Why Does She Matter?
According to tradition, Anne was the mother of the Virgin Mary – a symbol of fertility and motherhood. Her feast day became associated with the first tasting of grapes, a symbolic blessing of the harvest.
Why Is “Anne’s Tear” Not a Joyful One?
As folk wisdom puts it: “Anne’s tear is rarely a blessing.”
Late July rains are less help than harm:
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Excess rain can dilute the grape's internal content
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Swollen berries may split, leading to grey mold (Botrytis cinerea)
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The rising sugar attracts wasps, insects, and other pests that can easily damage the fruit.
Insects and Pests – Nature Also Senses Ripening
The increase in sugar draws in grape moths, wasps, mites, and aphids. Precision in pest control becomes essential at this stage. Eco-friendly methods such as pheromone traps are gaining ground in modern viticulture.
Beyond Folklore – The Winemaker’s Instruments
Tasting the berries is just the beginning. At this point, strategic planning begins:
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Must weight – Indicates sugar content, and forecasts potential alcohol in the finished wine.
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Acidity and pH – Essential for freshness and balance.
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Seed maturity and skin structure – Especially critical in red grapes, where tannin ripeness defines the wine’s character.
While the heat of summer still dominates, the vine has already begun preparing for autumn. For those who pay attention, the first face of the wine is already visible on the cluster. Folk traditions are more than poetic memory – they’re durable, time-tested knowledge.
St. James signals the start of ripening.
St. Anne gives the sign: the future of the wine is ready to be tasted.