DOMAINE CHRISTIAN MOREAU Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru 2022 (0,75 L)

'Although their first commercial vintage was only in 2002, this is now one of the finest and most sought after domaines in Chablis. 6 hectares of Chablis Grand Cru and 5 hectares of Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon. These are wonderfully sited vineyards which for generations have been the personal property of the Moreau family. The family now have no connection or contract with the large and respected négociant of the same name. Christian, a larger-than-life personality, and his highly qualified oenologue son Fabien are making spectacular hand-crafted Chablis. All their grapes are handpicked from vines which average 40-70 years old. The village Chablis is completely vinified in stainless steel. The 1er and Grands Crus are predominantly vinified in stainless steel, but also see some barrel fermentation and maturation – but never more than 5% new oak. Clos des Hospices has been a familyowned monopole since 1904. It is situated on a lower, southerly exposure, with richer soils, giving a wine which is fuller and rounder. These are brilliant, bracing, classic, minerally Chablis. They are now certified as organic.'

Here too the nose is exuberantly fruity while displaying background hints of lemon rind, white flower, brine and algae. There is a lovely texture to the utterly delicious middle weight flavors that exhibit good length on the slightly more tightly wound finale. This does need to develop more depth but that should occur over the next 2 to 3 years.